Wednesday, September 1, 2010

Here we go!

So, I have to write Impression papers of our field studies, so I decided to post them as they are written. This one was from Sunday when we took our first organized trip into the Old City, which is about a five minute walk from the JUC gate. Enjoy!

Today was the first field study of many. Seeing the Old City is overwhelming at first. The constant banter of the shop keepers (in a language I do not understand), the combination of dust, stone, and heat beat on you as you make your way through packed streets cluttered with people. Is this what Jerusalem was like when Jesus was here?
Our study started just inside the Jaffa Gate, looking at “David’s Tower.” I quickly learned there is no historical evidence that David used this tower—archeologists even know where he most likely lived. Even though this is not an actual tower of David, people still come to it, remembering the great King David. It was interesting to find out, though, that this supposed “Tower of David” was probably built by Herod for one of his close comrades. I am quickly learning that places are good for remembrance, even if they are not historically accurate.
After gazing at the tower, we hiked to the Western Wall. The vastness of the wall is inconceivable. It is incredibly holy to Jews, and has been cause to much conflict between the Jews and Muslims over the years. I was shocked to find out that a multi-day brawl broke out in 2000 because some young Muslim men were throwing rocks from the top of the wall to the floor of the prayer spaces. This tension is so obvious here; the different religions want access (and control) over all the land, but are unwilling to share with others. Everyone feels obligation to the land and the tension is so evident throughout the entire city—but especially the Western Wall.
We then walked through the Jewish Quarter. Just like any other city, each “group” has their own quarter of town. There is no requirement to be part of a religion to live in that quarter, but it is common for the majority to flock to their own quarter. Then we went to the Jerusalem Cardo built by Hadrian. I learned that Hadrian conquered Israel and wanted to spread Roman influence across the globe. So, he tore down holy places and mocked their importance. For example, when he conquered Israel, he tore down the Dome of the Rock and built a statue to Venus. He also changed the way many streets were built. The Cardo looks like a street one would find in Rome: wide lanes, columns, and spread out. Streets in Jerusalem would have been skinny, stone buildings built on the side of the street, and cramped. The differences in architecture between cities have become obvious in my short time here.
Then we went to the supposed place of the Last Supper. We were able to see almost all of Jerusalem from the roof—and it allowed me to paint a picture of Jesus’ last days on earth. I learned that the building used to recognize the Last Supper used to be a mosque. Once again, the architecture differed greatly from what it would have been in Jesus’ day.
Finally, we ended at the Church of the Holy Sceplicure. Being brought up in a western protestant tradition, I am more interested in the the meaning of holy places, not necessarily the actual spot. However, walking into the Church showed me how different people appreciate places in the Bible. I learned that the Church is owned by six different Christian denominations. Each one fights over ownership of the building, so a decree had to be put in place to ensure the longevity of the building. It is almost embarrassing that regulations had to be put on the Church and the keys given to a Muslim family, so that the Christians did not lash out against each other. However, I did enjoy the story of the ladder on the roof: the decree was that nothing was allowed to be moved-ever- so the denominations would not fight over the things in the Church. After the decree was put forth, a ladder was found on the outside of the building, straddling a dividing line between two denominations… and it is still there from the late 1800s.
I was amazed at the displays built to show the holy grounds of Jesus. I was able to touch the supposed spot of Jesus’ cross, which almost brought tears to my eyes. One must look at this spot with deep humility; no longer is it simply a story in a big book. Jesus actually died a humiliating death on a cross, and we are able to touch the probable spot today. When I walked down the stairs to the spot where the women anointed Jesus, I was amazed at the number of people kissing the stone. But then, I saw the tomb, full of candles, gifts, and tears. The place our Savior was laid to rest… and more importantly, the place where he would have arose from the dead! Hallelujah!
Although it is hard to picture these places without the massive church surrounding them, I was still able to be amazed at the history in the building. I have always pictured Calvary, the anointing spot, and the tomb to be far from each other. I was struck by how close they actually might have been. Seeing these holy sites put into perspective the historical and emotional importance of the Old City. I cannot wait to learn more!

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