The sun rose slowly over Jerusalem, bringing the rest of Shabbat. We watched with expectation on the Mount of Olives as the horizons cleared and the city came to life… well, as much life that encapsulates Shabbat. The early, peaceful beginning was the perfect way to remember rest as we were about to embark on our next field study around Jerusalem.
The Mount of Olives shields Jerusalem from the desert wasteland just a few miles south of the city. From the Mount, Israel seems to be a budding, vibrant city; as soon as you cross over on the other side, all that is seen is bare. “As the mountains surround Jerusalem, so the LORD surrounds his people, from this time forth and forevermore” Psalm 125.2 (English Standard Version). Jerusalem is prey to the surrounding mountains and its vulnerability to possible invaders. This required the Jews to completely rely on God for protection. I was struck by the vividness of this Psalm while gazing over the great city. The Lord surrounds His people completely; how wonderful to be part of His flock!
The next stop overlooked the Temple Mount on the Mount of Olives, Dominus Flevit Church, and the garden of Gethsemane. Dominus Flevit Church commemorates when Jesus wept. The importance of the verse was justified by the humility of the Church. The scenery was breathtaking, but all visitors could not help but remember those two words: Jesus wept. We gathered again to walk to the garden of Gethsemane. The trees, sturdy and wise, seemed to give a glimpse of the struggle of Jesus’ final moments. As sweat dripped from our foreheads, all I could remember was the sweats of blood dripping from Jesus’ own forehead, as He accepted the Father’s will and sacrificed Himself. A sign posted inside the garden quoted from Matthew and then said: “O Jesus, in deepest night and agony You spoke these words of trust and surrender to God the Father in Gethsemane. In love and gratitude I want to say in times of fear and distress, ‘My father, I do not understand You, but I trust You’.” The garden is such a beautiful reminder of Jesus’ sacrifice and a conviction as to how we are to live our lives.
After a quick stop at the Kidron Valley tombs (and a lesson on dating archeological remains), we sped off in our bus to Herodium. It was so exciting to see this ancient palace. Herod was an architectural genius! With great positioning, it overlooked the desert to one side (“Valley of the shadow of death”, Psalm 23) and Jerusalem to the other. The hike up to the top was the perfect way to capture the vastness of Israel and Herodium.
We ended our day in Bethlehem at the supposed place of Jesus’ birth. During our talk, I learned that there is a valid possibility that Jesus was born in the stable of one of his relative’s houses. The word “inn” would have meant a gathering place, and since Joseph and Mary were going to Bethlehem because that was his home, most likely they would have stayed with family. I always pictured a hotel-style building when reading the birth narrative; now I will imagine Jesus in the backyard of his relatives, secluded from the racket of a busy home. As we walked through the church, I was shocked at its gaudiness. There are ornaments everywhere, bright lights, and gold at every turn. These displays have continued to shock me throughout my time here. All the Holy Sites are covered in fancy and expensive things—things I am not sure Jesus would want to be used to remember Him. This is one of the struggles and questions I will have to seek an answer to for the rest of my time in Israel.
Overall, our field study throughout Jerusalem was yet another reminder of the importance of geography to God’s people. God is constantly taking care of His children even though we continually turn away from Him. The Lord surrounds His people, just as His land surrounds them; a perfect reminder that is always present.
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